What should have been a jubilant celebration of Italy’s finest wines turned somber as the 57th edition of Vinitaly, the country’s premier international wine and spirits exhibition, opened in Verona amid growing anxiety over U.S. trade tariffs.
Held from April 6 to 9, the event welcomed over 4,000 exhibitors and tens of thousands of buyers from around the globe. But this year, the usual clinking of glasses was undercut by concern, as U.S. President Donald Trump’s recently announced 10 to 20 percent tariffs on European Union imports cast a long shadow over Italy’s prized wine exports.
“I’m very worried about the U.S. tariffs. It’s undoubtedly very bad news,” said Antonio Bartolini Baldelli, a wine producer from Tuscany, voicing the shared unease among many attendees.
Trump’s “reciprocal” tariffs, intended to penalize countries with perceived trade imbalances, included a blanket 10% import tax and a steeper 20% levy on certain goods — including wine. Although a 90-day pause was announced on some of the higher tariffs, the baseline tax remains, leaving producers in limbo.
For Italy, the stakes are high. The U.S. is one of the largest consumers of Italian wine. In 2024 alone, Italy exported roughly €2 billion (US$2.18 billion) worth of wine, spirits, and vinegar to the U.S., nearly a quarter of its total global exports in the category.
“The final burden will fall on American consumers, but we as producers are caught in the crossfire,” said Marilisa Mazzarella, marketing manager at Nardone Winery. “We are extremely anxious.”
Smaller wineries, which form the backbone of Italy’s wine industry, may be hit hardest. “We could see up to €323 million in annual losses,” warned Lamberto Frescobaldi, president of the Italian Union of Wines.
Carlotta Gori of Chianti Classico said the U.S. accounts for 36% of her exports. “It’s more than a business relationship — it’s a lifeline,” she said. “We are very concerned about how this will affect our future operations.”
Faced with market instability, some producers are exploring alternative destinations. “We’ve received emails from consultants urging us to diversify,” Baldelli said. “And we’re seriously considering it.”
Italian officials echoed the industry’s worries. At the event’s opening, Minister for Business and Made in Italy Adolfo Urso stressed the urgency of de-escalating trade tensions: “We must do everything in our power to avoid a trade war.”
Though the fair closed on April 9, the bitter aftertaste of uncertainty lingered. As the wine industry looks to preserve its global presence, it’s clear that the political decisions made far from the rolling vineyards of Tuscany could leave a lasting mark on Italy’s most iconic export.